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The Pink Dolphin

12/4/2018

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Hard to see the hue in this picture, but it was unmistakably pink!
The pink dolphin was a legend of Hong Kong, told to me by local residents and tour guides over the years.  I had heard about the existence of boat tours around Lantau Island, the purpose of which is to try to find this elusive creature, but until my most recent trip to Hong Kong in October, I had not taken such a trip.

On October 21, 2018, my group went to Tai O fishing village on Lantau Island, one of the thousands of islands that comprise Hong Kong.  We took a boat ride through the village and then sped for the open water.  I had no idea we were looking for a pink dolphin.  We drove near the new 55 kilometer bridge from Hong Kong to Macau which opened in late October.  We were marveling at the bridge when our driver started pointed and gesturing.  We looked where he pointed.  There was the dolphin, jumping through waves.  The hue is unmistakable, a light shade of pink.

The pink dolphins are endangered.  Many locals who have been riding boats around the islands have never seen one.  According to the Hong Kong Dolphin Conservation Society, the pink dolphin population of Hong Kong went from 158 in 2003 to 61 in 2014.  Our boat captain was respectful of the dolphin and kept his distance, but others speed toward the dolphins, scaring and injuring them.  Water and noise pollution has also endangered the dolphins in these waters.  Noise pollution has increased significantly since the new airport was constructed on Lantau Island, particularly disturbing for dolphins because they rely on sonar to communicate.

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The Women of Yao

11/27/2018

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Last month, I visited the Longsheng rice terraces in Guangxi Province.  We were fortunate to see a music performance by the local Yao women.  The Yao are one of 55 ethnic minority groups in China. The Han people are the majority, and make up about 92% of the population.

Sources claim that there are approximately 2.5 million Yao. They live in Guizhou, Guangxi, Guangdong, Yunnan, Jiangxi and Hunan provinces.  The Yao women in the village we visited wear red embroidered dresses and have unusually long, black hair.  There are 60 women in the village whose hair is more than 3 feet long and one whose hair is seven feet.  We did not see any gray or white hair and the women claim that washing their hair with rice water (the water that is drained after cooking rice), keeps their hair long, shiny and black through old age.

The women's hair is cut only once in their lives, during a coming of age ceremony, around age 18, that precedes marriage.  The cutting of the hair signifies that the girl is an adult and may marry.  The women keep the hair that is cut off.  After marriage and childbirth, the cut hair is weaved into the bun that the women wear. 

Many of the women perform in the troupe that we saw. Two of our male travelers were called onto the stage to be a part of a mock marriage ceremony.  It was quite amusing to see them paraded around on-stage when they had no idea what anyone was saying.  They were great sports!  Come to China with Chow Fun Tours and meet the locals.    
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Tai'chi in the Morning

11/20/2018

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In every neighborhood in Chinese cities is a local park.  And in almost every park, there is morning Tai'chi.  The teacher is a volunteer, usually a local Tai'chi expert. Classes usually begin around 8 am.  Generally, the population at these morning exercises is aged 50+, but more and more, I am seeing younger people in the parks, particularly if the class is on the early side, before work.

Like yoga, Tai'chi is designed for enlightenment and self awareness.  Whereas yoga is a series of postures, many of which we hold for a period of time, Tai'chi is fluid.  When done properly, there is constant, deliberate motion.  Tai'chi strengthens the body and improves flexibility.  It is also taught as a form of self defense.  

Regardless of where we are in China, I try to take travelers to a park in the morning to watch and participate in Tai'chi.  The local people are always thrilled to have us join the exercises and welcome us to come back the next day.  Join me on a Chow Fun tour and experience the Tai'chi mind-body connection. 

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Yangshuo Traditional Tai'Chi School

11/13/2018

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The Yangshuo Traditional Tai'Chi School is run by a young Master Ping.  The school is housed in a Qing Dynasty era home, and is set in a small farming village near the Yulong scenic area in Guangxi Province.  In October of 2018, I had to privilege of joining Master Ping in a class at the school.  

Tai'chi is a calm, soft and graceful exercise, with smooth transitions between movements.  The purpose is to help blood circulate throughout the body.  Breathing and actions are connected throughout the exercise and there is an emphasis on mind, body and spirit.

As a slow, meditative exercise, Tai'chi is practiced by a large portion of the elderly population in China.  It has been studied for its positive effects on memory in the elderly who practice.  Studies have also shown that Tai'chi can improve stress, improve balance and help with high blood pressure.

Join me in a Tai'chi class in Yangshuo or in any park in any city, town or rural village in China!

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The Rice Terraces of Longsheng

11/6/2018

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The rice terraces of Longsheng in Guangxi Province were built over 650 years ago.  The name of the terraces means "Dragon's Backbone," named because the the terraces resemble the backbone of the mythical creature.

China is the world's top producer and consumer of rice.  In Longsheng and in most of China, the planting, weeding, irrigating and harvesting is done by hand with the help of water buffalo for plowing.  Between 1000 and 2000 man hours are required to raise a crop on 2.5 acres of land (
http://factsanddetails.com/china/cat9/sub63/item344.html).  In the Yangtze River Valley, rice is generally planted from April through June and is harvested from August through October.  In other parts of China, there are two harvests, one in July and one in October.  

Come see the countryside and experience village life in China with Chow Fun Tours!
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Family Travel

10/30/2018

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Bayonne, France festival: Fete de Bayonne (2014)
PictureMy dad, Liv and I in Shanghai (2018)
Spend the time.  Spend the money.  There's something about family travel that bonds like nothing else.  Everyone is on vacation.  No work.  No school.  No XBox.  No friends.  A sure guarantee all five of us (sometimes six, with my dad) are smiling simultaneously.  When we are discovering new places and having new experiences together, we are happy.  

Start early.  We did not get our kids accustomed to flying long distances on purpose.  We lived in California; it was out of necessity. But it taught our kids to be patient travelers.  The more we exposed them to the country and the world, the more they wanted to explore.  And as we journeyed, we all became better people.  We are more tolerant, patient, understanding and adventurous because of our travels.

Go far, not just in terms of distance.  Go far outside your comfort zone.  The western hemisphere is amazing.  We have seen a lot of Europe and have had unbelievable adventures.  But China, Jordan, Cambodia and Vietnam are different.  And even though our kids are in their mid-teens to early 20's, that's just the start.  We all have the travel bug.

I'm not sure how much we will be able to travel over the next decade or two.  We are putting three kids through college and we are all busy.  But I know that if it's possible, we will do it.  As we always have, we will not be getting a larger house or nicer and newer cars.  These are first-world privileges we can live without.  But every penny not spent on those things will go toward seeing parts of the world that are not first-world.  

Spend the time.  Spend the money.  Start early.  Go far.

Lerma Spain, 2015
Halong Bay Vietnam, 2017
Beijing China, 2018
Copenhagen Denmark, 2018
Hoa Lu Vietnam, 2017
Wadi Rum Jordan, 2017
Tel Aviv Israel, 2016
Sergiev Posad Russia, 2018
Zhangjiajie China, 2016
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Mountains and Monkeys of Zhangjiajie

10/23/2018

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Zhangjiajie is one of the most breath-taking sights in all of China, all of Asia, and all of the world. The national park in Hunan Province consists of spectacularly tall rock structures, many of which are free standing and remarkably thin. You have probably seen the mountains' likenesses in the move "Avatar". The Zhangjiajie mountains inspired James Cameron, the director, to animate the floating mountains in the movie.

Before ascending to the paths at the top of the mountain where we see these "floating mountains", we ride a glass elevator to the top. Although they squeeze as many people into the elevator as possible, it is a fulfilling experience because of the spectacular view. 

The well-trodden paths allow tourists of all hiking and climbing abilities to travel. Along these paths, it is common to see monkeys. The sight of the monkeys, along with the stunning background, add to the astonishment we feel in Zhangjiajie. As if the winding paths and towering mountains are not enough, the park recently added a glass walkway that resides on one of the sheer cliffs. While traversing this walkway, we get one of the best views of the floating mountains, and one of the most thrilling examples of the altitude at which we stand. When we look at the floor, we are exhilarated by the thousands of feet that stand between us and the base of the mountain.

Zhangjiajie is certainly unlike anything else I have seen and will leave those who go there humbled and gratified to experience such natural wonder.  Come join me on a Chow Fun adventure to one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. 
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Blueberry Flavor Lay's Potato Chips?

10/16/2018

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乐事 is the name Frito Lay uses in China.  The pronunciation is "luh sure"; the meaning is "happy things".  This is a great example of the marketing issues related to Chinese characters.  Companies that use characters that sound like the name of the product or company may alienate end users because the actual meaning of the characters has a negative connotation.  An example of this is KFC's branding.  At first, the translation of "finger lickin' good" in Chinese was "eat your fingers off".  In China, Mercedes Benz came into the market as "Bensi" because it sounds like Benz.  The problem is that "bensi" means "rush to die".  Needless to say, they changed the name. 

But the name is not why I write this week.  It's actually about the flavors.  It's hard to read the names on the bags in the above photo, but trust me, they are not Sour Cream and Onion.  Flavor preferences vary from country to country.  That's why in China, we see Blueberry as a Lay's potato chip flavor.  And then there is Numb and Spicy Hot Pot,  Lemon Tea, American Classic and Italian Red Meat, to name just a few.  And it's not just Lay's.  Oreo's original flavor in China is not the same; it has a lower sugar content.  And chocolate Oreo's do not even resemble the chocolate to which we are accustomed.  China has flavors that we have never seen like orange/mango, banana cream, grape/peach, green tea and raspberry/blueberry.

It's fun to go to the grocery store in China and see all the variations on what we know as the "norm".  Let's go to China and check it out!  

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A glimpse of a rural Chinese market

10/9/2018

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There are daily markets all over China where locals do their shopping.  It's the way everyone shopped, all over the world, before the convenience of grocery stores.  In 1800's America, there was a bakery, a butcher and a fruit and vegetable stand.  People had time to stop at many shops.  Everyone knew the local farmer, butcher and baker. 

When I go to Stop & Shop, I don't know the people at the bakery, the seafood counter or the meat counter and frankly, I'm glad.  I am so busy now that I often hide from people I see at the grocery store because I don't have time to stop and chat.  There is always a meeting, a phone call, another errand or a time to pick up a child.  

That's why the local markets in China are so intriguing.  It brings us back to a time when life was simpler and less stressful.  The video clip above is a glimpse into that time.  There are butchers and bakers, farmers and fishermen.  Everyone knows each other.  I hear snippets of conversations about family members and holidays.  I catch the smiles and laughs and pats on the back.  Grandmothers carry grandchildren on their backs as they peruse the merchandise, while the babies' parents work.  There is a sense of community in these markets that is lost in America, or maybe it never existed.

Slabs of raw meat lies unrefrigerated on tables.  Flies visit every stall without prejudice.  The cleanliness of the markets is probably similar to America in the 1800's.  That will scare most Americans so much they will not ever visit China.  Their loss.  If you are brave enough for a Chinese adventure, please join me!
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Circles and Lines

10/2/2018

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As I peruse the photos I've taken over the years, I am struck by the continuity in shapes. Regardless of the province or town I visit, or the locales I frequent, circles and lines are constant.  In vegetable markets, round red tomatoes are placed next to long orange carrots.  Circular potatoes are housed next to long thin scallions.  In the Forbidden City, the towering red doors are decorated with lines of large ornamental gold knobs:  circles in a line.  The zodiac masks in the galleries and museums have large round eyes and are decorated with designs of color and ink lines.

Maybe this is the case in the rest of the world.  I guess that in most markets, galleries and sites, there are circles and lines, but for some reason, the continuity of shapes in China strikes me. 

Perhaps it's the combination of the shapes and the bright colors that strike me.  Non-GMO vegetables are naturally vibrant.  It does not matter how many fruit and vegetable markets I visit, I am always in awe of the colors.  The use of bright colors in art and architecture is also fascinating.  Red is a lucky color, believed to bring health, wealth and happiness to those who wear or decorate with it.  Traditionally, brides wear red dresses (white is the color of funerals).  Red envelopes filled with money are given away at Chinese New Year.  As Americans, by comparison, we see very little red in our homes, our clothing and our buildings.  This is shocking compared to the more muted palette to which we are accustomed.
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Come with me to enjoy the circles, lines and bright colors of China!

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    Lauren Drazen

    I have traveled all over the world, including adventures in China, Taiwan, Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Israel, Jordan, Turkey, Greece, Italy, Spain, France, Switzerland, England, Denmark, Russia, Costa Rica, Jamaica, St. Lucia, Dominican Republic, Canada and Mexico.  My greatest love is introducing Americans to the sites, traditions and people of China.  My hope is to give travelers a new lens through which to see the world.

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